London Calling

Us at The LIon King

Our wonderful Indian food feast

The name on everybody’s… lips is gonna be … “Roxy”… Here we are … in London town, in the west end seeing a live show … “Chicago” … what a time we had, the dancers were lusty and tawdry – We loved every minute of it. The songs, the live orchestra, the over the top sensual costumes and the music – ah the music … the melodies are still lingering in my mind. A day earlier we went to see “The Lion King” The theatre was lavish – there were the side balcony boxes with ornate wooden carvings on the outside – very impressive theatre. The Lion King play was a bit of a letdown - maybe because it was a matinee` filled with talkative children or maybe because we were just more in the mood for something with a little more edge – Chicago fit that bill to a tee.
We did many of the typical London tourist things – took a bus around the town to take a glimpse at all of the things you should look at while there. The London eye, parliament, the Thames River (which we took a river cruise on), the Tate, Big Ben, Westminster Abby, the Tower bride. London was a destination I really wanted see, but once there I just wanted to leave. It was very crowded, dirtier than I would have imagined and the traffic was standing still at times. Of course I am happy I went – I took the photos that one would expect from a tourist spending a few days in London. I think I needed more time to soak into the buzz of the city and to also have some relaxing moments there, but with three days – well, it’s difficult to do and see all aspects of a city the size of London.
We did happen upon a splendid Indian food restraint named “Sitar” on the strand in the west end. I can’t tell you everything we tasted, but I ordered a vegetarian plate that came with seven or eight different samplings, plus rice and naan. I know that sometimes(okay all the time) I do go on about the food, but this Indian food was out of this world - the taste was superb and the presentation of the food was incredible – of course the cost was outrageous, but in London you can expect to pay twice what you would pay in the states for everything.
The next day I did want to venture into Harrods – the big famous department store – just because I was there - it was the first day of their big sale – there were women crowded in the handbag section all clamoring for 50% off Gucci bags – I avoided them and wandered around, took a few photos and bought a scarf. It was exciting but disgusting all at the same time – so much consumerism (but I consumed too). So – with all of this being said – would I go back to London? … Yes, I think I would – but next time I would like to be there for a longer period of time.

The Giant’s Causeway – Northern Ireland

We drove from Belfast to The Giants Causeway – there are many “theories” on how the causeway was formed – one is that an actual giant used these as steps to cross between Ireland and Scotland … However, the Scientific version is that a lava flow occurred and as the lava cooled it created six sided basalt columns. You can pick which version to believe – all I know is that it was an analyzing site. I was a little freaked out at first – I thought from the top of the road you had to climb down these wet slippery six sided rocks to the sea. Not the case at all – there was a meandering softly sloping road that took you down to sea level – once there the “Giant’s Causeway” could be seen. A few weeks ago if you had asked me about the Giant’s Causeway I would have no idea what you were talking about, now I wonder how anyone could not have heard of these unbelievable steps that span from the mountain tops into the sea – how dramatic the view was when we rounded the corner and I saw all of these stones. Some stretching so tall, that from a distance they looked like uneven organ pipes gorging up from the ground. How can this happen? How can they form into individual columns at varying heights? Our guide Mark cautioned me that I should be careful “An American woman just last week slipped on the rocks and broke her arm – the bone was sticking out’ Oh great – now I was a bit more freaked out, but I forged on with trepidation. It was cold and windy – you could hear the sea waves crashing and there was a sound of children squealing with delight as they reached the top of a high column. We took photos of each other sitting, standing and climbing the rocks. Photos of the rock landscape, photos of the steps and of my feet against the columns. Unreal, unbelievable and remarkable – Mother Nature had treated us again to something spectacular– a hidden treat she had tucked away in Northern Ireland.
After our time at the Giant’s Causeway we all had a meal in the Hotel. The food here is prepared so different than at home – our tablemate had a bacon burger – the bacon looked blubbery and raw – ick. Across from me was Irish stew – mutton with carrots and potatoes – again may I sat ick? Someone had garlic fries which smelled wonderful. Me? I ordered a side salad and I must explain it to you – there was a little lettuce with cucumber but no dressing – a large scoop of cold spiced flavored rice, coleslaw, potato salad and a hard billed sliced egg – how can you get all of this from ordering a side salad? I don’t know, but I gave the egg to Dave and enjoyed the rest immensely. I dipped my potato salad potato in hot spicy mustard – it made my cheeks red and my nose run – I loved it! I also had a baked potato and a glass of red wine. To me, it was a good meal – I don’t think others were as satisfied as I was – content in my vegetarian world of Irish delights. Once everyone had finished their meal we headed out - our next stop would be at the” Carrick–A-Rede rope bridge” which crosses a 24m deep and 18m wide chasm. We didn’t have time to hike to or cross the bridge (Thank God) but we did take some photos – it looked very unpleasant to cross, espically if you are afraid of heights – as I am. Our next stop would be back in Belfast – a local traditional Irish Pub!

Belfast Pub – Ireland

“The Crown Liquor Saloon” Est. 1849 welcomes you to Belfast.” Once inside of the pub you really don’t know where to look – the lamps were propane powered and had mantels in them, there was carved wood everywhere and they had booths called snugs which had high wooden walls and a door that closed you in with your party. All over the bar are metal plates that said “Matches” this is where you would have struck your strike anywhere matches as to not ruin the wood. The floor was absolutely marvelous – inlayed tile in black and white. The bartenders could offer at least six draft beers – hot peanuts – any type of hard liquor and T-shirts. Once we ordered we headed for a snug with others from our tour. The windows were all stained glass framed in dark wood. There wasn’t anywhere you could look and not see something photo worthy – carved lion’s heads as you enter the snug, even a bell on the wall to ring for additional service should you require it. We all sat around and reminisced about our day – the Belfast neighborhoods of war, the Giant’s Causeway, our dinner, the rope bridge and now this authentic Irish Pub. Some of us drank beer, others Irish whiskey, soda or wine – no matter what – we all had a good time, the day drew to a close and we had all bonded over our shared experiences of the day. We smiled for each other’s camera and raised our glasses together while we said “cheers”. It was an excellent day – we were safe and sound and joyful. We all gathered in front of the pub for a group photo – say Cheese!

Belfast Ireland

The Wall and the Police Station

We boarded a small motor coach with 10 other people in the early hours of a rainy Sunday morning – our tour driver was named Mark and he had a very thick Irish accent – almost unrecognizable to the English language. He suggested that while it was still quiet we drive through the Belfast neighborhoods. How could you not feel a little apprehension? He told us he would drive us into some neighborhoods where other tours don’t go, an area where we could see many hand painted murals. Was this a smart idea? Our van stopped in a neighborhood with brick apartments – at the intersection I saw my first up close Belfast mural – One eerie mural displayed a gunman – Mark told us, “No matter where you walk, the gun will follow you” The gunman wore a ski mask he looked threatening and scary. Next we drove to another neighborhood – more murals – I read them and I felt sad inside. Mark explained to us that it is not a religious war of the Catholics against the Protestants as most of us might think – but rather it was political – the Unionists who are loyal to Brittan and wave the Union Jack flag of red white and blue are against the Irish Republicans who wave the red flag and would rather be independent of the UK and England. It just so happens that the Unionists and mostly Protestant and the Republicans are mostly Catholic. As we sat in the van in one neighborhood the painted mural outside of my window read: “Cluan Clan - five people shot – houses burnt – houses bombed – 20 families intimidated out by sinn” - Why did we stop here? I just wanted to drive away safely. We drove a little more – past the police station which was unrecognizable – all barricaded in metal – you could see where the fence surrounding the building had been built higher and higher – so people could not throw bombs etc. over the fence. Our next stop was to the wall that divides the city – It is a high concrete wall, that wasn’t tall enough so they added a metal wall on top of it which still wasn’t high enough – so they added a chain link fence on top of that one. The concrete part was filled with graffiti – no one wanted to leave the van for a photo – we just took our photos through the van windows. The mood was very somber – no one spoke very much – we just listened to Mark. In front of most houses they fly a flag to let you know which side they are on. I saw graffiti on a wall “We need social housing, not yuppie apartments” The next said “We need regeneration, not gentrification” The people are angry here, that is apparent. Our tour of downtown Belfast came to a quiet close – our next stop would be The Giant’s Causeway – about an hour and a half away – surely this would lift everyone’s mood. Mark put on a CD of “Happy Irish folk music” we listened quietly as he drove.

Liverpool

me at the gate of Strawberry Fields
The gate

John was raised here by his Auntie Mimi
The childhood home of George

The childhood home of Paul

The childhood home of Ringo

If you don’t love The Beatles as much as we do then you might want to just pass on this blog spot completely. Dave hooked us up with some wonderful people on our cruise who had planned a Beatles excursion with a magnificent tour guide – the day began with a lot of rain – this would not stop our van filled with Beatle fans. Liverpool has a feeling, a smell, a vibe and a resonance of The Beatles that still lingers long after the band no longer exists – although I still do believe they exist as much today as ever.
We got out of our van and walked down a rainy alley to see The Cavern Club of Liverpool – There is a life-sized statue of a young John leaning against a brick wall – hands in pocket and one foot crossed in front of the other. A shop displays vividly colored psychedelic beach chairs imprinted with the Beatles faces. It is very early in the morning, nothing is open yet, there is a silence – but the Beatles essence can still be felt.
These are some of the places we visited: The birthplace of John Lennon – The childhood homes of Ringo, Paul, George and the home of Auntie Mimi where John was raised. We went to Penny Lane – an intersection of streets where the young boys used to meet – our guide explained the lyrics of the song for those who didn’t know them.
We went to the church where John and Paul first met and we were introduced to a man named Dave who said he was there the very day they met – In the words of John Lennon “That was the day, the day that I met Paul that it started moving.” We stood inside of the church where they played their first gig it was an amazing feeling to be in that very hall where Paul first preformed / auditioned for John – I stood alone and looked at the stained glass windows – I tried to imagine what it must have been like.
Across the street – “The Church of England – Diocese of Liverpool – The Parish of St. Peter – Woolton.” We walked out into the cemetery – our guide pointed to a grave with the marker that read “Eleanor Rigby” telling us that the Beatles wrote the song about a fictional person – however the name was a common British one.
“Strawberry Fields Forever” – an overgrown grassy tree shaded area where John used to go as a boy. The area is bordered with a concrete fence with two concrete pillars with the words “Strawberry Fields” painted on them serving the purpose of holding up an ornate steel gate that has a multitude of several coats of red paint on it. The concrete pillars and the gate are covered with bits of graffiti – mostly bearing names of fans, where they came from and the date they were there. What a magnificently awesome way to spend the day in Liverpool, I highly suggest it.
Penny Lane there in a barber showing photographs - Of every head he's had the pleasure to know. And all the people that come and go, Stop and say "Hello”. On the corner is a banker with a motorcar, and little children laugh at him behind his back. And the banker never wears a mac in the pouring rain - very strange. Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes.There beneath the blue suburban skies I sit, and meanwhile back-In Penny Lane there is a fireman with an hourglass, and in his pocket is a portrait of the Queen. He likes to keep his fire engine clean, it’s a clean machine. Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes. A four of fish and finger pies in summer. Meanwhile back behind the shelter in the middle of the roundabout the pretty nurse is selling poppies from a tray. And though she feels as if she's in a play, she is anyway. In Penny Lane the barber shaves another customer, We see the banker sitting waiting for a trim, And then the fireman rushes in From the pouring rain - very strange. Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes.There beneath the blue suburban skies I sit, and meanwhile back. Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes. There beneath the blue suburban skies...Penny Lane!

Cobb/Cork/Dublin - Ireland

A Dublin street band
The view from our pub
Dave & his foamy lip
fun for a photo but i don't like dark beer
inside of the Guinness factory
An Irish sweater store
Dublin music shop
Dublin music shop
my feet in Dublin

street signs

An artist draws with chalk

A local Irish band in Cobh

Banjo with the hands and guitar with the feet

Cobh Ireland

We had a few different stops in Ireland, we went to Cork via train (our first train trip in Europe) for an uneventful day except for the fact that we walked past a Subway sandwich shop. That smell – oh my Lord - I know that if I was at home this would probably not faze me at all – but after not being in the states since March – I wanted a 6” Veggie delight so bad I couldn’t see straight – we sat in the Subway sandwich shop munching on our sandwiches watching the pouring rain and I loved every minute of it. That’s all we did – walked around the town, took photos and had a sandwich.
Our next stop was in Dublin and it was the 4th of July. We walked around the town and found some cool music shops. I collect guitar picks and have been really hoping to find some rare ones during this time of travel – Jim Dunlop has the whole pick market cornered around the entire world – The Dunlop plant is in California. No music shop even had a pick bearing their shop logo – shops used to do that as advertising – an era gone by now. We found “Bewleys Café” on the famous Grafton Street. The balcony was called the James Joyce balcony – he was a poet and a writer. It was kind of a grumbley personality conflict day – so I decided we needed a break. We grabbed a balcony seat on the third story overlooking the crowd of people below. We ordered an appetizer plate of medaterrian food – and pesto garlic bread. We sat there talking, eating and drinking watching street performers. They paint themselves like wizards and such – springing to life when you drop a coin into their box.
We each decided that since we were in Dublin Ireland we had to go on the Guinness beer factory tour. After the self guided tour they treated you to a pint of beer. A pint in Ireland is not 16oz. It is 20oz. We had the option of having the bartender tap our beer or we could pull it ourselves – we opted for the latter. I’m really happy we did – the fella taught us the proper way to fill the glass, then let it rest so it can settle – then you tap it to the top. After we “pulled” our beers we got a certificate saying we had become master pullers of Guinness. There is a circular bar at the very top of the factory that has all glass walls – a panoramic view of the entire city lay below you – the place is filled with people all drinking their one free beer (you can’t buy a beer up there) the edges of the walls have cushions where you can sit for your beer and view. The speakers play loud rock music and I didn’t feel like I was in Ireland at all. Dave totally dug it up there – I felt like there were just too many people, but I did enjoy the view.
That’s all folks.

Laugharne / Larn

Tha Laugharne Castle

Can you please pronounce the name of the above city for me? Remember, we are not in England anymore, but are now in Wales. For months we have been calling it “laugh – are – knee”. Wrong! It is pronounced Larn as in the rhyming word with yarn.
When we got to our condo, I was so let down – we had just spent a week living in a castle right? Now we had a sad, miserable, gloomy little old condo that looked like it had not been remodeled since 1965. I was disappointed the minute I walked through the front door – but I wasn’t going to let that deter me or sway my attitude one bit – if there was hot and cold running water, a bathroom and a bed I was going to be content. (The hot water did not work in any sink and we did have to call maintenance) One redeeming aspect about this condo – (or should I say negative aspect) was that it was right down the lane from a magnificent smelling bakery. We made up our mind that if the condo sucked we could at least be happy eating fresh baked scones in the morning with our coffee – and that is what we did for a week – scones, tea cakes, whole wheat bread, Welsh cakes, crumpets, honey buns and cherry cakes. I went in one morning for some wheat bread and a man was in there picking up twelve honey buns for his daughter – I asked him if they were especially good – He said that his daughter Nan loved them he was there to pick them up for her to bring to work. He then yelled to the bakery woman “Love, would you please show this lady my Nan’s honey buns to have a look at”? I almost burst out laughing at the prospect of looking at his daughters “honey buns” – so, in my embarrassment and shock and also not wanting to offend either of them I promptly ordered six. Apparently so popular are these honey buns I had to come back the next morning to pick mine up – who knew? I telephoned my brother and I said the condo is in a dangerous location – he didn’t ask “is it on a cliff” or “is it on a busy street” or “is the neighborhood unsafe” He knew all too well what I meant and replied – “Is it near a bakery”? I said – “How did you ever guess that”? – He said “well, I would call a bakery dangerous”. I love my brother – he gets me.
So what do you do in Wales for a week? You buy a castle pass, program your GPS with their locations and head out each day to see as many as you possibly can. Each morning I packed a lunch to bring with us so we could picnic at the various castles – Dave was in charge of programming the GPS and we left shortly after breakfast. Some castles were in complete ruin with only a prayer of luck holding them together – while others were furnished with era pieces and gave detailed descriptions about the families who once lived there. I will say one thing about being tall – the sign that says “Mind your head” is to be taken seriously. There are winding stone stairways that spiral downwards with little or no room for the tall to escape bumping their heads – I walked with one hand against the wall and one hand with my palm facing out while on the stairs and going through doorways. I took solemn photos and silly photos – I took a photo of a school class fieldtrip where three little boys were sword fighting in the courtyard with wooden swords – I would love to have known what they were thinking as they clicked their swords against each other’s and yelled triumphant cries of victory. We went to the castle in Laurgne, we climbed into small spaces, we hiked up high hills, went into castle rooms so enormous, stood in kitchens used 100’s of years ago, climbed to the top of castle towers and looked down onto motes that once guarded the castle from intruders. We saw ivy sprouting through brick and mold growing on the walls. Can I say I got castle’ed out? And if all of these castles were not enough – we went to a stone museum. Why? Because it was part of our castle pass.
Wales is similar to England, but they have their own language – it is printed on the freeway signs right under the English word. In the grocery stores the Welsh names are on the directional overhead signs –it is nothing closely related to English at all – it made no sense to us, so we didn’t even try. The British, Welsh, Irish and Scottish have all capitalized on a souvenir that I find simply irresistibly quaint and charming- they all sell Tea Towels. I truly believe I must now own one for each week of the year (a joke – but I have bought my fair share)
I would be remiss if I did not mention our favorite place in Laugharne and that is “The Green Room” a Café`. We had absolute no Internet connection at all – we asked the owner if she had Wi-Fi for customers – she gave us the total hook-up. Needless to say, just about every day we went to “The Green Room” for a good pot of hot Welsh tea – and the goat cheese pizza is wonderful too! So here is a big shout out to “The Green Room “in Laugharne Wales – “You All Rock – Thank You”!
Also, I really must mention driving in Wales – It is quite a bit more rural and country like especially on the way to some of the castles we went to. Now we never questioned our GPS - she had been a faithful gal – but she did direct us down some roads where the hedges were so full and bushy that they brushed along both sides of the car while driving. Now, after that being said – what the heck would you do if you happen to meet an oncoming car on this road? We wondered about this a lot – then one day it happened – we met a car – we both stopped - grill to grill – then they backed up. Simple! Now when you’re in town, the roads are so narrow that if anyone parks it creates a hazardous situation of a two lane road now becoming a one lane road – so when a car sees another car coming towards them, they pull onto the curb and give you the high bright flash which means “okay, comm’on – you can go now” so you eek by looking out of your side view mirrors and just shrug your shoulders – I forgot to mention that when you do park your car you flip your side view mirrors in towards your car – that is only if you value them. Saying the roads are tight is truly a gross understatement – they are unbelievably narrow – Just go there and see for yourself – I dare you.